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Eveningwear takes a romantic turn

COLORS, FABRICS AND DESIGN

Cocooning's out. Charity balls are in. The gala season is underway, a time when even the most desperate housewife wants to be a diva. For the past couple of years, that's meant "red-carpet dressing" -- trying to emulate the glamour of Hollywood awards shows with big sexy gowns, lots of skin and gobs of glitter. Why settle for looking like Audrey Hepburn when you could channel Charlize Theron? But seasons come and go, and this year even the red carpet is toning it down -- fewer slits, rife romance, more modesty. Some blame the war in Iraq, most blame sheer boredom with famously overexposed boobs, pecs and abs.

Yes, you can still find strapless gowns with enough support to hold together a beached whale and a skirt big enough to cover it

For ordinary folks, this is great news. It means we can still dress like the rich and famous without worrying about overexposure. "This season evening wear is all about feeling comfortable. If you feel comfortable in anything you're going to wear, then you're going to look great," says Julie Timmins, special events co-ordinator at Holt Renfrew. Yes, you can still find strapless gowns with enough support to hold together a beached whale and a skirt big enough to cover it. But why be pinched and breathless when you could wear something with straps that floats over your curves and isn't at risk of falling down just as all eyes turn your way? Or you can choose something that shows off your trim figure hard-earned through hours at the gym but that also spells "romance" instead of "come hither." Unless, of course, hither's want you want.

"There are so many things that are in right now with colours and fabrics and the design and the length,"

"There are so many things that are in right now with colours and fabrics and the design and the length," says Timmins. "It kind of all goes this season, so it's about personal mood, your style, what you're comfortable in." Holt Renfrew recently held a trunk show of spectacular eveningwear, with dresses by international designers who are very familiar with the red carpet, including Valentino, Zac Posen, and Mark Badgley and James Mischka. Prices were pretty spectacular too, topping out at $9,999.85 for a Badgley Mischka gown in Victorian lace, crystal appliques and black silk ribbon. But while these gowns are beyond the budget of many women, they do offer a view of where eveningwear is headed and lessons that can be applied at other shops. For the newest look, think "pouf" (those poufs you use in the shower give a rough idea of the look). Skirts with puffy ruffles set in tiers have replaced the big ball skirt while still offering a nice place to camouflage hips and bottoms. Also hot is the empire waist, which allows to fall away from just under the bust to create a flowing look that drapes well on the body. Another new option is the floor-sweeping puffed hem, which swishes and flows as you walk. While long gowns are still the most popular, "we're even seeing ladies in their 40s and 50s who are in great shape ... who have great legs, great figures, who work out" buying very short gowns for big events, says Holt's Ottawa area sales manager Sirena Shonuck.

"The nice thing about short dresses ... is that with all the amazing shoes that are out there you get the chance to feature them,"

"The nice thing about short dresses ... is that with all the amazing shoes that are out there you get the chance to feature them," Shonuck says. Detailing is also important. Beadwork and appliques still add sparkle and glitz, but detailing now can also hide figure flaws. Pointing to a black Carmen Marc Valvo gown with empire waist and a blue chiffon overlay, Shonuck notes the angled ribbon decorating the bodice. "The way it's cut through here where the ribbon comes across the body is very slimming because it distracts the eye. By being on an angle it's much more slimming than a straight horizontal line would be." While black gowns are making a comeback this season, the hottest colours are jewel tones. Colourful prints are also back in style. The vivid dresses flatter any skin tone and can double as cruisewear. "Any of the silks and the chiffons are really seasonless," says Shonuck. "If you go on cruises, they're great for that or you can wear them to a wedding or to an early function depending on the weather. Some people like to have a little punch because we need that colour to uplift us through the dark days of winter." By Wendy Warburt

"There may be something akin to vicarious gratification in watching movie sex,"

Blank, however, notes audiences experience the sex in porn films far differently than in mainstream and art-house films. "There may be something akin to vicarious gratification in watching movie sex, but it doesn't work in the same way as hardcore pornography works," he explains. "In the former, you know the people you are watching are (in most cases) not actually doing it, yet you might imaginatively care for them; in the latter, you know they really are doing it, but you don't care for them." Despite a spike in social conservatism over the past few years, filmgoers seem to be tolerating and in many cases, welcoming more sex on screen, both in adult-oriented movies and those designed for younger audiences. A Harvard School of Public Health study of 1,906 films found there has been significantly more sex in PG and PG-13 movies in recent years, with researchers noting that ``today's PG-13 movies are approaching what R movies looked like in 1992.'' Charles Coletta, who teaches film studies at Ohio's Bowling Green State University, says the participation of A-list celebrities in sexually explicit films is helping legitimize the trend for mainstream tastes. As an example, he points to "America's sweetheart" Julia Roberts' turn in 2004's Oscar-nominated film Closer, in which the actress enthusiastically and in some detail describes performing oral sex on a lover. "People were complaining about sex being unrealistic before. Now (the complaint is that) it's too realistic," says Coletta. "But movies and television have to compete with everything else that's out there. You have sex at your fingertips on the computer." Peter Keough, author of Flesh and Blood: The National Society of Film Critics on Sex, Violence, and Censorship, says although the envelope is being pushed, there has yet to be a watershed moment for realistic sex on screen.

"Unfortunately, the films that have been coming out have relied on sex as a special effect,"

"Unfortunately, the films that have been coming out have relied on sex as a special effect," observes Keough, a movie critic for the past 25 years. "I don't think they've succeeded as films as much as provocations." The problem is twofold, he says. First, the Hollywood studio system has not fully accepted the possibility that audiences will tolerate realistic sex on the big screen. And second, the studio system might be right to hesitate A four-year study released in June by the Dove Foundation, an American advocacy group, found G-rated films which consistently outperform their R-rated counterparts have in fact become 11 times more profitable. "People find it difficult to go into a movie theatre and watch sex being taken seriously," explains Keough. "If it's injected with camp or comedy, I think they find it much more palatable." According to Will Miller, a psychotherapist at Indiana's Purdue University, it's that audience ambiguity which stems from arousal being ``the most unique and anecdotal experience in humanity'' that's making the depiction of sex in the movies especially difficult. ``Filmmakers had it easier when they had to work within artistic limits,'' he says. ``(Sex is) an area that very few people can handle deftly.'' But if any generation is open to seeing the boundaries pushed, he believes it's the younger one. "People have been acclimated to looking at really graphic images," says Miller. "So it's not surprising that there has been some increase in the ability of people especially young people to tolerate stuff that would repel their parents and make their grandparents pass out." By Mitty Harris